Engineered wood flooring installation
Part I – Acceptable Jobsite Conditions and Jobsite Checklist
- Refer to previously described guidelines.
Part II – Acclimation Guidelines
- Wego Engineered Wood Flooring should be stored in the climate controlled job site for 72 hours to adjust to room temperatures. The planks should be left in unopened cartons until ready for installation.
Part III – Appropriate Grade Levels
- Engineered wood floors can be installed successfully on, above or below grade level.
- Engineered wood floors can be installed directly to concrete or wood subfloor.
- The entire flooring level is considered to be BELOW grade where soil is present along any perimeter wall and is more than 3” above the installed wood flooring level. Ground should be sloped away from the house for proper drainage. (Check local building codes. Local building codes prevail. Follow local building codes.)
Part IV – Subfloors – Wood Joist Systems
- See instructions previously described.
Part V – Subfloors – Concrete Slab
- See instructions previously described.
Part VI – Engineered Flooring Installation Methods
- Wego engineered wood flooring should not be installed directly to screeds.
- Note on random-width plank
- Random-width plank is laid out with alternating courses varying by widths. Start with the widest board, then the next width, etc., and repeat the pattern.
- Choose a Starting Wall
- Choose a starting wall according to the most aesthetically or architecturally important elements in the room, taking into consideration fireplaces, doors, cabinets and transitions, as well as the squareness of the room. The starting wall will often be the longest unbroken wall in the room.
GLUE-DOWN ENGINEERED STRIP AND PLANK
Basic Tools and Accessories:
- Rubber mallet / 4d-6d Flooring nails / Jamb saw or hand saw / Chalk line / Pencil / 15 lbs. Asphalt felt / Table saw or band saw / Hammer / Tape measure / Leading brand of hardwood flooring cleaner / Broom / Powernail manual 45 T&G Powernailer, pneumatic 445 Powernailer or other machines designed or adapted specifically to ¾” solid wood flooring / Quality moisture meter with manufacturer's relevant exotic species calibration figures.
- There are several different ways to start an installation of glue-down engineered wood flooring. The following has proven successful.
- Test the substrate for moisture according to appropriate moisture testing procedures described previously. Excessive/elevated moisture should not be present. The subfloor should be within acceptable moisture content as per adhesive manufacturer’s recommendation before installing.
- An expansion space of 9/16” (or the thickness of the planks) should be left around the perimeter and at all vertical stops.
- Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall, the width of the board, plus the tongue and recomm ended expansion space.
- Install a starter board along the edge of the working line and begin installation.
Alternatively, lay one row of plank in the adhesive along the length of the workingline.
- Follow the installation procedure recommended by the adhesive manufacturer, which includes a subfloor moisture content, spread rate, trowel size, open time, working time and flash time as necessary. Spread the adhesive a instructed up to and along the working line.
- Distribute lengths, avoiding “H” patterns, stair stepping and other discernible patterns in adjacent runs. Stagger end joints of boards row to row a minimum of 6” for strip flooring, 9” for 3” plank, 12” for 4”, 15” for 5”, and 18” for planks wider than 5”.
- 3-M Blue Tape should be used. Do not use 3M's quality #2090 tape.
- If recommended by the adhesive manufacturer, roll the floor with the proper roller.
MECHANICALLY FASTENED STRIP AND PLANK
CAUTION: It is extremely important to use the appropriate adapters as well as staples or cleats. Improper fasteners, machines, and air pressure can cause severe damage.
- If necessary, add a vapor retarder.
- Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall, allowing expansion space.
- Lay one row of plank along the entire length of the working line.
- Top-nail and blind-nail the first row (hand-nail if necessary), using appropriate fasteners. Denser species may require pre-drilling. Each succeeding row should be blind-nailed wherever possible.
- Typical: narrow crowned (under 3/8”) 1” - 1 ½” staples or 1” - 1 ¼” hardwood flooring cleats designed for engineered flooring.
- Typical: every 3-4” with staples, every 4-6” with cleats, and within 1-2” of end joints. Use appropriate size fastener for top nailing first row, last row and any area where blind nailer will not fit.
- Add each additional row of flooring. Distribute lengths, avoiding “H” patterns, stair stepping and other discernible patterns in adjacent runs. Stagger end joints of boards row to row a minimum of 6” for strip flooring, 9” for 3” plank, 12” for 4”, 15” for 5”, and 18” for planks wider than 5”.
- During installation of flooring pieces, push or gently tap boards flush to the previous row. Tap against the tongue; tapping the groove may damage the edge. To prevent damage to the finish, avoid tapping the face of the board with a rubber mallet.
FLOATING ENGINEERED FLOORING
- Additional tools for floating installation:
- Pull Tool or Crowbar
- Floating floor pad with built in moisture barrier foam with moisture barrier 2 in 1 or 3 in 1
- Tapping Block (used with care)
- 3-M Blue Tape – Do Not Use 3-M #2090
- Glue – Franklin Titebond II or Equivalent PVA-2 floating floor (poly vinyl acetate) adhesive
- Subfloor flatness is critical to the success of a floating floor installation. (See Wood Subfloor Guidelines and Concrete Subfloor Guidelines.)
- Test the substrate for moisture according to appropriate moisture testing procedures.
Excessive/elevated moisture should not be present. The subfloor should be within acceptable moisture content as per manufacturer recommendation before installing.
- If necessary, add vapor retarder. (See Acceptable Vapor Retarders in Moisture Requirements and Moisture Testing.)
- At least 9/16” expansion space should be left around the perimeter and at vertical stops.
- Typical: Subfloors are covered with a resilient material, foam underlayment or cork.
A 2-in-1 or 3-in-1 underlayment is a good choice.